Associate restaurant critic Cesar Hernandez is driving the boat this week.
Wonderful cafe ice cream is like a sweet postscript with the power to help you save a lackluster evening meal.
So when the Foods & Wine crew compiled our favorite ice product places, I was devastated that my editor banned restaurants from the record. In my estimation, some of the Bay Area’s greatest ice product is at dining places, not creameries. With so numerous memorable scoops and swirls that did not make the cut, I decided to write this tribute to those people unforgettable, frozen codas.
In a cafe location, flavors are normally unanticipated. Get, for illustration, San Ho Won in the Mission District, which has soft provide infused with Korean flavors — at present its banana milk and roasted buckwheat. A handful of months ago, the restaurant’s ice product was enriched with makgeolli (sparkling rice wine) that lended lightness to the handle a drizzle of strawberry syrup additional juicy sweetness and puffed rice equipped texture. (At the not long ago-shuttered Suragan in the Tenderloin, a cucumber kimchi sorbet even now haunts my style.) I enjoy the austere but stunning choose on smooth provide at Napa’s the Constitution Oak, exactly where burnt vanilla ice cream is drizzled with pecan oil.
Even small fish-topic restaurant Anchovy Bar entirely commits to the little bit with its sundae topped with mini, crisp anchovies. The inclusion of the infant fish infuses a enjoyable savoriness that builds up the neat product and tangy tamarind sauce.
Anchovy Bar. 1740 O’Farrell St., San Francisco. theanchovybar.com or 415-796-2710
Angie’s Pizza. 3228 16th St., San Francisco. angiespizzasf.com or 415-829-2040
Charter Oak. 1050 Charter Oak Ave., St. Helena. Thecharteroak.com or 702-302-6996
Copas. 2223 Marketplace St., San Francisco. copasonmarket.com or 415-829-2614
Dalida. 101 Montgomery St., Suite 101, San Francisco. dalidasf.com or 415-237-1999
Jo’s Contemporary Thai. 3725 MacArthur Blvd., Oakland. josmodernthai.com or 510-479-3167
Lavash. 511 Irving St., San Francisco. lavashsf.com or 415-664-5555
Mamahuhu. 517 Clement St., San Francisco 173 Throckmorton Ave., Mill Valley 3991 24th St., San Francisco. eatmamahuhu.com
Prik Hom. 3226 Geary Blvd., San Francisco. instagram.com/prikhomsf
San Ho Wan. 2170 Bryant St., San Francisco. sanhowon.com or 415-868-4479
A cafe setting leaves additional home to find extra unusual traditions than your regular parlor. The younger coconut ice product at Prik Hom in Laurel Heights is a perfect case in point of this. The Thai restaurant traps the smoke of a candle in a cup, to infuse smokiness — a taste reminiscent of Mexican leche quemada (burnt milk). At Dalida in the Presidio, you are going to find Turkish ice product that’s a bit stretchy, sleek and flavored with bitter cherries. In excess of in the Sunset District, Lavash delivers opaque yellow Persian ice cream scented with saffron and rosewater.
Nostalgia with a twist is a further topic. Copas, in the Castro, hides its tart sour cream-based mostly ice cream in a raspado drizzled strawberry syrup — breathing new life into the chilly street snack. Angie’s Pizza in the Mission dispenses strong comfort with its apple pie sundae. As does Brandon Jew’s Chinese American mini chain Mamahuhu, with its banana-flavored, oat milk-primarily based gentle serve styled with Chinese substances like boba, Ovaltine and Ceylon tea syrup. At Jo’s Fashionable Thai in Oakland, mango sticky rice is reimagined as a parfait where the fruit is transformed into a custardy scoop.
These frosty delicacies may be more challenging to get (some may offer you takeout) but it is value the more work to behold the glory.
Arrive at Cesar Hernandez: [email protected] Twitter: @cesarischafa